Comme des Garçons have always done things differently. Since Rei Kawakubo founded the label in 1969, the brand has refused to conform to convention. As a graphic designer, I’ve always been drawn to their world, every aspect of it feels raw, instinctive, and refreshingly unpredictable.
Their campaigns provoke instead of explain. They favour curiosity over clarity, inviting questions rather than providing answers. It’s a reminder to all of us – designers, creatives, and founders alike, that true originality isn’t found in following trends, but in having the courage to carve your own path.
When you have a product, the natural instinct is to show it off, to place it in the hands of models, influencers, or celebrities and highlight how good it looks. It’s a formula that works, and countless brands follow it successfully.
But Comme des Garçons have a different formula. Instead, they create strange, captivating artworks that pull you in and make you think. In a marketing textbook, their approach might seem illogical. But to a CdG customer, it makes perfect sense. Their visual language isn’t about mass appeal, it’s an unapologetic expression of taste, raw and uninfluenced by passing trends.
The irony, of course, is that this very approach often ends up putting their products in the hands of those same models, influencers, and celebrities anyway - not through paid placement, but through genuine admiration.
Every graphic designer understands the power of imagery. A visual system, no matter how well-designed, can be elevated or undermined by the photography that supports it. Comme des Garçons often choose to work with existing imagery rather than commissioning new shoots, a decision that feels both deliberate and radical.
Their collaborations with photographer Roe Ethridge are a perfect example. Some critics have dismissed this method as simple “logo slapping,” but it reveals the depth of Rei Kawakubo’s understanding of visual culture and taste. By recontextualising Ethridge’s work within the world of fashion, CdG also bridge the gap between contemporary art and commercial design.
As a designer, I’ve often found that an idea can begin with a single image - or almost anything, really. A photograph can become the seed from which an entire artwork or design grows. There’s no fixed formula for creating a final piece, but Comme des Garçons’ approach shows how starting with an existing image and building from there can be just as valid, as long as the photographers are acknowledged and credited appropriately.
Comme des Garçons’ visual system is only one part of their success, but it’s clear how much intention sits behind it. Art has always been prioritised over trends and virality. In a world increasingly driven by metrics and engagement, CdG stand as a reminder that taste remains the ultimate marker of a brand built to last - one that earns a genuine, cult following.
At Open All Hours, that’s what we believe in too: taste above all else. Prioritise that, and everything else will follow.
Shot of the good stuff
